Discover Kashubia, a Hidden Gem in Northern Poland
Kashubia is certainly Poland’s best secret.
They call it Poland’s little Switzerland but I think that Kashubia deserves to be called…Kashubia or Kaszuby as locals name it.
This stunning region in northern Poland was one of my best discoveries in 2023. Well, I actually did not discover it. My husband did and I am thrilled that he did because cycling in this area was spectacular.
I had never heard of this place before.
Here are some of the surprising things that I learnt:
- Kashubia is region with its own official language—the Kashubian language! It’s officially recognised in Poland and is spoken by approximately 100,000 people.
- The Tricity—Gdańsk, Sopot and Gdynia are said to be part of the Kashubian region.
- There is a legend that says that God spent 6 days to create the whole world and reserved the seventh day for Kashubia. This is to show just how extraordinary this place is.
- There over 500 picturesque ribbon lakes in Kashubia. Impressive, right?
- The bicycle trails in the Kashubian Lake Disctrict are said to be over 230 km long—a special treat for cyclists!
- One can also do numerous types of sports in Kashubia such as swimming, kayaking, water skiing, hiking, horse riding, just to mention a few.
We stumbled upon this treasure after doing some research. It was not our first time to cycle in Poland since we had already done a 250 km, two-weeks long cycling tour in the Masurian Lake District in 2010. Back then, we cycled with our two daughters who were 5 1/2 and 11 months old respectively.
This time round, we wanted to do a four-day bike tour as a couple. Our criteria were: flat land, rich cultural heritage, mouthwatering traditional food and breathtaking views of the Polish golden autumn.
Fortunately, we stumbled upon Kashubia. What a place! Our expectations were fully met!
We immediately started preparing for the trip: planning all the stop points (Czersk-Wdzydze-Sominy-Charzykowy-Czersk), buying a trailer and customising it for our dog, buying warm and waterproof clothes since the weather was fickle, finding a way to transport our bikes from Warsaw to Czersk, booking accommodation and getting ready physically and mentally.
Once everything was planned, we were ready to leave.
Czersk to Wdzydze, Kashubia, Wednesday, October 25th, 2023
We left Warsaw on a cold, dark and rainy day and arrived in the city of Czersk around one o’clock p.m. We immediately parked our car and set off, heading to inescapable Wdzydze, a city which boasts of the Kashubian Ethnographic Park Museum and the Wdzydze Landscape Park.
Our trip took us through small villages and surprising forest trails. It rained slightly and in the beginning, I was not particularly enthusiastic about the whole trip. Moreover, we arrived at our hotel when it was dark and it felt scary to cycle in the cold darkness where one rarely met a single soul.
Luckily enough, we were not going to camp but we would sleep in a hotel where a hot meal was awaiting us. What a shock it was to find out upon our arrival that the restaurant had already been closed at 7 p.m.
There were little to no tourists since it was autumn and almost all the shops in the village were closed. Fortunately, we had brought the rehydratable chicken and rice that astronauts eat in space in case of an emergency. Well, this was an emergency, right? The hotel’s receptionist was also kind enough to give us some delicious smalec and bread. We downed the improvised meal of pork fat, space food and slices of bread with a glass of red wine which we were paradoxically able to buy at the hotel’s bar.
I was somehow disheartened and dreaded the following day. What a pleasant surprise it was to wake up to the beauty of the next day in Kashubia.
Wdzydze to Sominy, Kashubia, Thursday, October 26th, 2023
When we drew the curtains open, we were pleased to see a swimming pool in the hotel’s grounds. There was also an indoor pool which we were able to enjoy before our sumptuous breakfast. The views were stunning and we ate while an old man played the piano. It was magical. The staff were very friendly and welcoming. We were sad to leave for Sominy but expectant at the same time. What awaited us there? It was time to find out!
The rain had disappeared and it was such a pleasure to cycle on this day as we headed to Sominy. We alternated between forest paths and tarmacked roads which diversified our cycling experience in Kashubia. I was always on the lookout for news things, people or places to see and I was not disappointed at all.
We had lunch on a beach overlooking a peaceful lake. The view was amazing and I did not want to leave. Every landscape we stumbled upon felt like a gift from the sky. I started realising how lucky I was to be part of this and I was immensely grateful.
Doggie enjoyed getting off the bike and running sportily with his short muscular legs. We laughed as he barked, urging us to be quick. How could a tiny creature like him be filled with so much energy?
The day flew by and we reached our destination in no time at all. We spent the night in a house surrounded by trees and lush vegetation. The owners were extremely friendly and asked us many questions about our trip in Kashubia. That night we were able to do a barbecue and make an outdoor fire which is called ‘ognisko’ in Poland. We enjoyed our food and had a pleasant night.
Sominy to Charzykowy, Kashubia, Friday, October 27th, 2023
We left Sominy after a hearty breakfast and headed to spectacular Charzykowy. It was agreeable to cycle through the neat villages and the greenery stretched into the distance as far as the eye could see. Autumn seemed to grace us with never-ending wonder: a patch of trees with overflowing yellow leaves, farms spread out on fertile land promising a bountiful harvest, forest trails laden with all manners of mushrooms.
I was obsessed with the mushrooms. We saw people stopping their cars by the roadside and disappearing into the heart of the forest. Sometimes, we came across a couple with a basket full of mushrooms. I wondered how they had chosen their bounty. As for us, we took many photos and video footage because the spectacle was amazing.
Sometimes, the forest trails were impracticable and we needed to get off the bikes and walk. Doggie followed us excitedly as we tried to find a better road. These experiences strengthened our resilience and we were all the happier when we found a smooth road where we could cycle without difficulty. This reminded us of the asperities of life: they were never eternal. One could go through hardship and emerge stronger at the end of the tunnel.
What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger.
It was all the more rewarding to see the state of our hotel when we arrived in the late afternoon. The food and the views were out of this world. Gratitude filled our hearts.
Charzykowy to Czersk, Kashubia, Saturday, October 28th, 2023
This was our last day in Kashubia. We tried to enjoy every bit of it. It seemed as if the heavens had reserved the most beautiful images for this last leg of the trip. We were treated to sumptuous views and awe-inspiring landscapes. We could not believe our eyes.
I then started believing in the legend. God had indeed taken his time in order to create this unparalleled beauty . It was certainly true for autumn. One couldn’t resist the urge to take photos and capture the beauty of this place. It seemed as if this was the only way we could do justice to the magnificence we observed.
Sometimes we were jolted back to reality when we realised that there was a thriving wood business in Kashubia. We saw dozens of trees being felled in a mechanical, industrial and systematic way. Countless times, I felt a cold chill run down my spine as the thump of a fallen tree broke the monotonous silence.
Were the images that I had seen during the entire trip going to be relegated to the past, never to be seen in two generations to come? Was the luscious vegetation I had revelled in going to disappear like these trees that were being cut into small chunks and loaded off somewhere to build our houses or warm our homes?
I did not have a clear answer then. I do not have a clear answer now.
The only certainty remained in what I had seen, felt, smelled, touched and heard in Kashubia.
For a brief moment, my soul had connected to the spirit of the forest. I had been welcomed in the bosom of Mother Nature and it had felt good.
As we arrived on the cold surface of the car park where we would get our car back and drive back to Warsaw, I felt nostalgic about the whole experience.
I had been deeply touched and I realised that my life was going to change without doubt. When I arrived home, everything around me seemed superficial. I did not want to engage in artificial consumerism. Objects no longer looked appealing.
However, old habits die hard and it was not long before I recovered my past ways. Kashubia was long gone and Warsaw with its fast paced life had replaced it.
Now, while writing this blog post, I am reminded of how I felt at that time in Kashubia—serene, joyful and filled with purpose. I want to feel this way again. It’s certainly possible.
🌺🌺🌺
More about Our Bike Tour in Kashubia
Kashubia is a breath of fresh air.
Nature in this region is abundant, luscious and everchanging.
Autumn in Kashubia is a treat for the senses: breathtaking views, deep fragrances, mushrooms sprouting from moist and fecund land, different landscape textures and an incredibly rich fauna emitting sweet and unsettling sounds.
Cycling through the dense and not so dense forests is something to write home about. You can hear everything and almost nothing. The silence here is deep and stupefying, for apart from meeting animals and an occasional human being, you can cycle for hours and remain face to face with yourself and the surrounding world.
The calm is balm for your soul.
It invites reflection and introspection.
As the serenity invades you and becomes you, the chaos of the outside world becomes a surplus, a skin to shed, a cumbersome weight to load off.
As days go by, you feel lighter and more appreciative of little things and sights: eating a sandwich in a park, watching a family of swans, observing mushrooms and imagining which ones are edible and which ones are not.
Your spirit becomes to soar. You are elevated. Your worries feel small. Nature dwarfs your troubles. You forget.
As the wind rushes past you, minutes flashing by, slowly turning into hours, you continue cycling, pedalling, feeling the power in the muscles of your thighs and your calves and exhilaration engulfs you.
You pedal faster and faster in the slopes and let the speed gather and let yourself glide. It feels good and you want to start again.
When going upward, you take it slow and let patience be your guide. Arriving on top becomes a prowess—you did it!
It’s a joy to see Doggie descend from his cart and run after our bikes. It is freedom. He runs faster and faster and stops and looks at us, urging us to follow him. We heed his advice so we continue our journey.
Doggie always looks forward to these stops. He barks and lets his small frame carry him through the silence. He has never done this before. He will probably not do it again, not here—certainly.
It is a fleeting moment always to be remembered and I am sure dogs have memories, but what memories? Smells, sights, sounds, tastes, touch? Does he know what he is doing when he sniffles the ground and comes close to a poisonous mushroom which he senses is deadly and pulls away from?
Stumbling upon civilisation brings us back to reality. We feel the familiarity of our surroundings: roads, cars, incessant cars, people talking, people shopping and people looking at us, smiling at us or not, just people.
We stop by Żabka or Leviathan to buy food. The items we choose are comforting and healthy. I have taken a liking to ‘surówki’, a Polish salad made of white cabbage. I eat it with bread and cheese and ham. Divine.
Each village we come across is a work of art, a reminder of present and past habits, a reassurance of continuity. The farmer will keep on ploughing his field, looking after his livestock and the chained dogs in the pens will continue barking at passers-by.
I realise this is another world. They have probably never seen anyone like me. They smile tentatively but do not ask questions. They too realise that this is a transient moment. They will probably not see anyone like me again, certainly not on a bike with a dog cart trailing behind her French husband.
This is an exceptional moment and we all take it in.
Arriving at our destination is always a relief. We have cycled for more than five, six or seven hours. Our muscles are sore but are our spirits have been nourished, enriched. We feel alive.
We take our bags off, mechanically and surely. We have not practised this beforehand but our gestures are well-coordinated. Sweetie and I have the same sense of purpose. Our hearts are united and we look forward to spending yet another day together in the midst of nature and remote civilisation.
I feel safe when I cycle with him. The vast expanses of the forests do not frighten me as we wade through the lavish vegetation. I see his resoluteness and lack of fear.
At night, in the safety and comfort our bed, we talk about our experiences and laugh and share our wonder.
It has been a great and productive day. A day full of discovery.
Tomorrow is yet another day. We will repeat the same motions: wake up, take a shower, dress in warm clothes, eat breakfast, pack our things and leave.
We will know what to do without telling each other.
We will be filled with a sense of purpose, of future accomplishment.
Doggie will wag his tail excitedly and hop on his trailer. He will be looking forward to a day full of wonderful happenings.
Finally, he will bark once, a sharp and short signal for us to set off.
We will take a last look at the place and the people that welcomed us with warmth and we will leave, never to see them again.
🌷🌷🌷
Further Exploration: Ode to Kashubia—A Hidden Gem for Cyclists and Nature Lovers in Poland and Beyond (Level B1-B2)
Read:
- What is ‘smalec’, a comprehensive article about this Polish delicacy by Culture.pl
- More about Kashubian Switzerland by Poland Soul Travel
- Stepping Back into Time, Revisiting the Island of Crete after More than 20 Years, Learn English With Africa, September 2024
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About the Author
Thandi Ngwira Gatignol is the founder of Learn English With Africa. She was born on June 11th, 1981 in Blantyre, Malawi. When she was 19, she left her country of birth for France. She currently lives with her two daughters and husband in Poland.
Thandi holds a Bachelor’s degree in English studies obtained at the Université Paris X Nanterre in France and a Certificate in Journalism from Malawi. She has taught English as a French Ministry of Education certified teacher both in France and in Poland. She speaks six languages fluently, including French, Polish and Italian. She is now learning Kiswahili, German and Spanish. Salt No More is her debut novel and you can find her other books here on the website or on Amazon.
Blog Article: Ode to Kashubia—A Hidden Gem for Cyclists and Nature Lovers in Poland and Beyond (Level B1-B2) © Learn English With Africa, October 2024
